The thing is, I am not a butter eater.
In front of a loaf just out of the oven, I will reach for peppery olive oil and flaky salt. Butter can sit in my fridge, ignored, for months, until the baking hitch attacks.
But since our last trip to Rome – where I ate my weight in gluten and dairy – I have been using that packet of butter surprisingly often. It was either melted into a puddle, mingled with anchovies and used to season pasta. Or eased in thin yet un-spread layers over toasted bread, and covered with whole, plump anchovies only seconds before the first bite. It might partially be because of the desolate fridge we found upon our return – the butter, you guessed it, was one of the few things in there. Or else because anchovies are a beloved flavour in our house, and we never miss the occasion to fry some up. Whatever the reason, and as hazardous as this combination of flavours might sound to purists – fish with dairy? are you joking? – they are definitely a match made by a genius mind.







