From the phone calls mum and I exchanged over the holidays, I learnt that Venice and the surrounding countryside have been particularly foggy this year. Foggy with the sort of fog that prevents from seeing past one’s nose, that never burns out, that, like a filter, dresses everything in a very classy though mildly depressing shade of gray. The kind of fog one is scared to drive in, but that, in Venice, makes everything – both real and captured through a lens – just a little bit more magical.
There’s something about the winter weather, the light veil of fog, the mist, and the decreased daylight that makes Venice, so evanescent and eerie at times, even more mysterious, elusive, and just heartbreakingly beautiful. In January, the charm is enhanced by its semi-deserted appearance: far from the hustle and bustle of the station and the main attractions, the alleys turn quiet, the quarter’s squares bare of people. Walking through Venice’s labyrinth of calli, crossing its campi (squares) after sunset on a winter day, you’ll likely hear nothing more than the sound of your steps. Though it only lasts for a short while, it will almost feel like you have the whole city to yourself. And that’s something one doesn’t forget all too easily.
Many odes to wintry Venice have appeared in major publications lately (Traveler, Jo on Vogue), all suggesting to visit the city right after the Christmas holidays, when things become relatively quieter for a few weeks before the whole Carnival madness picks up. My friend Emiko, a long-time lover of the floating city, concurs. It’s a tough choice, and I must say, Venice in winter is gorgeous but it does get terribly cold. Surely the cold provides the perfect excuse to visit more of its many wine bars and cafés and to keep warm while sipping something restoring; however, it’ll be hard to enjoy the city much past the early sunset.
In my mind, nothing beats Venice in autumn, when a strike of luck might gift you with sunny, warm days, and comfortable temperatures to hang out outdoors, hopping from one bacaro (wine bar) to the other, chatting outside with a glass of wine in one hand, a cicchetto (bite-size snack) in the other. If I had to choose a favourite time to be in Venice, it would be November. On a normal weekday in late autumn, most tourists have left, the peak of cruise season is over, and the many day-trippers are back at work. In November, the largely unbearable crowds of tourists have given way to more ‘normal’ people – commuters, workers, students, residents. This is the time of the year I love paying Venice most of my visits.
As you might know, I am a Venetian of the countryside. I grew up in a village a few miles inland southwest of the city. And yet, the connection to the city and its proximity has always played a crucial role in my family’s daily life. My dad, a retired high school teacher, started his career in a school on the tiny island of San Giorgio, right opposite Saint Mark’s Square. My aunt has been a public employee in Venice for 35 years, and my brother is still a student of Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University. I must have spent hundreds of days in the city, either on my own or with friends, and all in all, I think I know my way around. However, it never ceases to surprise me – there’s always an alley I never walked before, a detail I had missed. Similarly, when it comes to food, every visit is an excuse to try and add a new address to my list.
On the wave of the good response to the Padova food guide, I thought a Venice guide would be of some use, too. With this in mind, I spent many days between July and October last year revisiting a few favourite eateries, cafés and food shops around the floating city, snapping some photos around town (mostly with blue skies, incidentally) and writing quite a few notes. I am happy to finally be able to share them all here. The premise of this food guide is, I don’t believe there’s still such a thing as Venice’s best-kept secret. When it comes to good spots to eat in Venice, rest assured that every restaurant, every hole in the wall in the city has been written about, reviewed, critiqued, rated, found. You’ll find tourists, few or many, wise or clueless, pretty much wherever you go. And yet neither is this a bad sign, nor does it lessen a place’s worth or spoils the atmosphere, or compromise the quality of the food. In these places you’ll generally find people interested in understanding the culture of a city and a region through its food; people who know that spaghetti bolognese is not the kind of food one should go for in Venice, if anywhere. And that’s good enough already.
The guide is ordered by the main quarters of the city. You’ll find that some places are a bit fancier than others – there’s a nice mix for all pockets. Some bacari will seem ridiculously cheap, a few restaurants a bit more dear. I tried my best to strike a balance. I included a few cafés, pastry shops, bakeries, gelaterie, and shops to buy nice food, too, in case you fancy doing some shopping. What I did not include, this time around, are grand names in the San Marco area such as Caffé Florian, Caffé Quadri and Harry’s Bar. You probably know them already – their fame precedes them. These are marvelous old-school Venetian institutions, places where you’ll spend quite a bit but where you’ll sip your drink or dine in the most spectacular location, surrounded by frescoes, gold-framed mirrors and Murano glass chandeliers. They are all fantastic for a one-off experience of the Serenissima’s grandeur, so if you want to treat yourself, there’s no better place to be. Beware, though, that there won’t be many locals around you in any of them.
Anyway, I hope this little guide will help you navigate the confusing food scene of Venice, and will contribute to shake off the terrible reputation it has gained for offering expensive, poor quality food and for emptying the pockets of its unaware visitors. Crowds will always be there, and tacky touristy restaurants, too. However, there are also many peaceful corners to enjoy, and many good meals to be had. I think you’ll love this side of Venice a lot.
Cannaregio
A quiet, mostly residential area stretching from the train station to the hospital, Cannaregio is home to many local hotspots. It is also where most of the city’s nightlife happens (a wine bar open late at night is a rare sight in Venice; Campo Santa Margherita being the other exception to this rule).
For a drink and a bite:
Fondamenta degli Ormesini
A local hangout, this is the perfect place to enjoy a spritz al bitter far from the madding crowd of Strada Nova and Rialto. Young vibes and a nice mixture of residents and students.
Calle dei Pistor
A real institution, it had its ups and downs, but their polpette di carne (meat rissoles), which keep coming out of the kitchen crisp and piping hot, and their fondi di carciofo (artichoke hearts) are nothing short of five stars. Particularly good with an ombra (a small glass) of their inexpensive house wine. Have them at the counter or outside, then hop away to…
For a meal:
Fondamenta della Sensa
Make sure to book your table ahead, for the creative, ever-changing Venetian-with-a-twist cuisine served in this elegant restaurant has gained quite the reputation. You get all the classics, done excellently, plus a few wild cards. Could not recommend it more.
Fondamenta di San Giobbe
Off in the furthest reaches of Cannaregio is this homely-run restaurant serving family-style meals to a healthy mix of locals and savvy tourists. The menu del giorno is set, so you get two-three courses of whatever is available, either meat or seafood. You eat (well), you pay (around 15 euros for lunch with house wine) and then you carry on exploring. It’s great, inexpensive and without fluff. For dinner (from Thursday to Sunday only) booking is mandatory though I personally come here for lunch.
Castello
Dominated by the imposing arsenale, Castello used to be the humblest quarter of the city. Today, it remains mostly residential and largely unspoilt by the crowds. I find it one of the loveliest neighbourhoods to stroll through on a nice day. It’s also where some of my favourite restaurants, bars and cafés happen to be.
For coffee and pastries:
Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Stop here, sit outside, grab an espresso and relax while admiring the hospital’s stunning façade. Their biscuits, either the ring-shaped buranelli or the cornmeal and raisin zaleti, are very nice, and so is their specialty, a flan of sorts with custard and semolina called budino.
For a drink and a bite:
Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa
A not-to-be-missed aperitivo hotspot, though only open from 7pm – incidentally, the perfect time to kick start the ‘happy hour’. You’ll then have time until 2am to try something from their curated list of wines by the glass, from the humble to the utterly unique. Ask Mauro, the host, for recommendations, then pair your glass with a platter of their excellent cheeses and cured meats.
For a meal:
Trattoria Alla Rampa
Via Garibaldi
Open for lunch only (actually, from the break of dawn, if you fancy starting your day with the right foot) this popular eatery does the first seating on a fixed-price basis for workers on their lunch break (menu operai). After, everybody can sit down and order something à la carte. Their menu is heavy on tradition, the cooking is family-style, and the seafood is always a good bet.
Calle de Pestrin
Possibly the restaurant with the loveliest (liveliest) atmosphere in the whole of Venice, and one located relatively far from the most beaten tracks. Their home-made primi with fresh pasta are plain amazing and are even better when preceded by antipasto misto featuring the nicest seafood from the lagoon – mantis shrimp, razor clams, raw prawns and the like.
Campiello della Pescaria
An elegant yet cosy restaurant run by Cesare, Venetian, and his American wife Diane. They promote the use of local, seasonal produce (seafood, fruits and vegetables) in line with Slow Food’s principles, and are extremely passionate about traditional cooking. Their fritto misto has become a cult though everything on their menu is truly delicious – let the hosts guide you. Don’t miss out on the fantastic grappa selection: the perfect end to a good meal.
San Polo
Just across the Rialto bridge, San Polo is an area half packed with tourists and half still largely undiscovered. The quarter is centred around to the Mercato di Rialto, a bustly array of market stalls piled with the best fresh seasonal produce on one side, and the freshest seafood catches on the other. San Polo is also home to many of the best and oldest bacari in town.
For some shopping:
Ruga del Spezier
One of the oldest druggist in Venice, right by the Rialto market, this spice and specialty food shop sells everything one might dream of, from loose teas and coffees to spices, herbs, oils, sauces dried fruits and more. Most things are sold by weight and neatly wrapped in their signature printed paper. In the backroom is a wide array of labels from respected regional wine producers, alongside some of the finest grappe.
Campo Bella Vienna
The nicest family-run cheese shops in town. Tucked in a little piazza around the corner the Rialto Bridge, this is where to buy provisions if you’re spending a few days, or to take home. They have Parmesan, of course, and in many stages of maturation, but also many regional cheeses from all over Italy, plus a small charcuterie counter, too, featuring, among others, some fine prosciutto and culatello.
Rialto Market
Open every day (except Sundays) from early morning to around noon, it is an absolute must-see for all lovers of seasonal produce (mostly fruits, vegetables and fish). It’s great even just for nosing around, seeing what’s good, hearing a good deal of Venetian dialect and doing some people-watching. Go early to avoid crowds.
For coffee and pastries:
Pasticceria Rizzardini
Campiello dei Meloni
This old, charming café, pastry shop and bakery is worth stopping by just because it has been around since the 1700s (hence the beautiful interiors) though it also happens to have some of the best baked treats in town. Their frittelle alla crema (fried doughnuts stuffed with custard, a Venetian specialty for Carnival) are fabulous, and so is the marzipan cake. Coffee and hot chocolate are more than respectable. One of the nicest pit-stops while out and about in town.
For a drink and a bite:
Cantina Do Mori
Calle dei Do Mori
Legendary, ancient (since the 1400s), traditional tavern. I can’t event imagine the number of ombre and the morsels of food that have been served at its well-worn wooden table! I am particularly fond of their anchovy-centred cicchetti (such as their eggs with anchovies) but honestly, they are all nice. The service is stark and the atmosphere is a bit gloomy, so I would start the giro di ombre (round of drinks) here and then move on to more cheerful places.
Calle Do Spade
One of the few bacari in town with large tables at the front to put down your wine and your cicchetti, plus a few more tables in the small sitting room at the back (which you can book online) for something more substantial, like bigoi in salsa or fritto misto di pesce con polenta. If you are only planning a short stay and a few snacks, try their stuffed squid or their baby octopus in tomato sauce with a spritz. And if you find yourself in the area for lunch, they serve a delightful seafood risotto at 1pm sharp – but move quickly for it sells out fast.
All’Arco
Calle dell’Ochialer
Only open from 8am to 3pm, this is a real treat of a bacaro serving the most delightful cicchetti. Start with sarde in saor (fried sardines marinated with onions and vinegar) and finish with some cured meats, all washed down by a mean spritz or a glass or two of their nice prosecco. It’s the best Venetian-style lunch one can hope for at any time of the year.
Campo San Giacometto
This is the sort of old yet trendy bacaro I have a love-hate relationship with, though their nice list of wines by the glass (better than most places) deserves a special mention, and so does their baccalà mantecato (creamed salted cod). They have a few tables available if you feel like having something more substantial after a few glasses of wine (bigoli in salsa are particularly good). Alternatively, there are also a few tables in the outdoor area in the back – the view of the Grand Canal is very enjoyable on a sunny day, with a glass of wine in hand and a plate of delightful and well-made snacks in the other.
Al Mercà
Campo Bella Vienna
The classic hole in the wall (literally), this is where you go for people-watching. You eat and drink standing in this little piazza right behind the Rialto Bridge and breathe in the relaxed atmosphere of it all, except it’s not too pleasant on cold days. Order a prosecco còlfondo (traditional method with lees) and try to grab one of their delicious polpette di melanzane (eggplant rissoles), or better yet a panino with baccalà mantecato before they sell out. Open at aperitivo times, from 10am to 2pm, and from around 6pm to 8pm.
For a meal:
Rio Terà dele Carampane
Tiny, traditional trattoria (rustic restaurant) serving cucina tipica veneziana and focusing on fresh seafood. The atmosphere is relaxed and familiar, warm and cheerful. From the menu, try the delicious pasta in cassopippa sauce, made with tomato, seafood and spices, a mix that echoes Venice’s illustrious spice trading heritage. Their seafood fritto misto is most definitely worth trying, too.
Dorsoduro and Santa Croce
Dorsoduro, the chic quarter bordering the last stretch of the Grand Canal all the way to the Canale della Giudecca, is home to the most beautiful palazzi and art galleries. Think Ca’ Rezzonico, The Accademia, The Peggy Guggenheim and Ca’ Foscari, the headquarters of Venice’s University. Its alleys are populated by many independent art and artisan boutiques (glass, masks, prints etc.), bookshops, and plenty more to fill your eyes with beautiful things.
For some shopping:
Calle Lunga San Barnaba
This is where you come to buy the best focaccia veneziana, the classic Venetian sweet bread – a brioche of sorts – topped with a sugar-almond icing. Slow-leavened and baked in a wood fire oven, Nonno’s focacce are then hung upside down to cool and release their moisture, remaining as feathery and fluffy as they get. The opening hours are weird, so it’s always a good idea to phone up to avoid disappointment.
For coffee and pastries:
Pasticceria Tonolo
Calle San Pantalon
Easily the best pastry shop in town. Bignè allo zabaione (choux pastry stuffed with boozy zabaione cream), rfrittelle…Everything is delightful. There might be a small queue on busy days, but be patient and you’ll sure be rewarded.
Gelateria Nico
Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Lungo
Forget the horrible gelaterie dotting the surroundings of San Marco. Da Nico is where you’ll find the best gelato in Venice. Tucked behind the Accademia, in a quiet part of town called Le Zattere, this elegant gelateria has been around since 1937 serving a wide array of homemade gelati. Perhaps their most famous remains the gianduiotto, a chunk of hazelnut chocolate ice cream buried under too much (never!) whipped cream. Their ice-cream sandwiches are very, very good, too.
For a drink and a bite:
Ponte San Trovaso
Another institution-type of wine bar – with wines starting from 1 euro a glass! – that also happens to serve some very good cicchetti, prepared just in time behind the counter by Alessandra. The atmosphere is relaxed and cheerful, the place almost always packed with a good mix of students, academics, foreigners and residents.
For a meal:
Ponte del Megio
Seasonal cuisine with a large choice of vegetarian dishes (a rare sight in Venice). Their flan di zucca has gained quite the reputation, though they are known for their meat dishes, too, leaning towards lesser cuts such as tripe and tongue.
Thank you so much for taking the time to put this guide together! I've been thinking it's about time that I take another trip to Venice (I went for my first time last January and, obviously, fell in love), and it will be nice to have such a well-organized list (and put together by someone from the area, rather than just a tourist who's stopped there for a few days!) with me when I'm planning where to eat.
ReplyDeleteHaving heard much about Venice's beauty and charm, I will save this guide for a time when I am fortunate enough to get to visit the floating city, in fall or otherwise. Thank you for your efforts – the photos and quick notes on each area are really making it come to life in my mind!
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ReplyDeleteI just spent last week in Venice staying on the tiny Isola San Pietro. I have to say it was absolutely magical. Foggy, Acqual Alta and bright sunny days, I had it all. What gorgeous pictures and a wonderful guide. I can not wait until my next visit north.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this guide, it must have taken a lot of work. We are off to Venice for a few days, this will be helpful.
ReplyDeleteWell done on your gastronomic guide to Venice Valeria! Your photos are just stunning. I'd been looking forward to this for a while after you hinted that you were working on this (and A LOT of work clearly went into it!). Have bookmarked this for a future trip to Venice. 🙂
ReplyDeletebellissimi scorci di una venezia vera, brava
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